Newtok’s residents embark on a historic relocation to Mertarvik, confronting climate change while preserving their Yupik heritage.

 

A resident drives along a flooded boardwalk on Wednesday, Aug. 14, 2024, in Newtok, Alaska. (AP Photo/Rick Bowmer)

A young man drives an ATV on Friday, Aug. 16, 2024, Mertarvik, Alaska. (AP Photo/Rick Bowmer)

 

In the remote village of Newtok, Alaska, the relentless forces of climate change have forced a community to confront an uncertain future.

Ashley Tom, who grew up along the banks of the Ninglick River, vividly recalls the unsettling sight of the eroding riverbank inching closer to her home.

This village, rich in Yupik culture and history, is now on the brink of transformation as its residents prepare to relocate to a new townsite in Mertarvik, just nine miles away.

Newtok, once a vibrant hub of tradition and community, has seen its landscape drastically altered by erosion and melting permafrost, which consume approximately 70 feet of land annually.

The memories of Tom’s childhood, filled with lessons from her great-grandmother and grandmother in sewing, crocheting, and basket weaving, now contrast sharply with the reality of abandoned homes stripped bare by the elements.

As the last 71 residents prepare to leave for Mertarvik, they will join the 230 individuals who began their exodus in 2019, marking a significant moment as one of the first Alaska Native villages to undertake such a large-scale relocation due to climate impacts.

The decision to move was not made lightly. For over two decades, Newtok’s leaders sought a stable site, ultimately trading land with the federal government for a safer location on Nelson Island.

However, the transition has been slow, leaving the community divided, with essential services like grocery stores and schools remaining in Newtok, causing further strain on families.

 

Calvin Tom, the tribal administrator, stands along the eroded coastline in Newtok, Alaska on Friday, Aug. 16, 2024. (AP Photo/Rick Bowmer)

 

Calvin Tom, Ashley’s uncle and tribal administrator, has witnessed firsthand the devastation wrought by climate change.

He described Newtok as “not a place to live anymore,” with precariously tilted power poles and the looming threat of losing power entirely with the next major storm.

As winter approaches, the urgency to establish temporary housing in Mertarvik intensifies, with 18 homes recently delivered on a barge.

Alaska is warming at an alarming rate, two to three times faster than the global average, causing unprecedented changes across the Arctic.

Communities that once thrived are now grappling with the realities of permafrost thawing, which threatens infrastructure and traditional ways of life.

The Yupik people have a term for these catastrophic changes: “usteq,” meaning “surface caves in.” This phrase encapsulates the gradual yet devastating impacts of climate change that have begun to reshape their environment.

As the residents of Newtok prepare for their new lives in Mertarvik, they face numerous challenges, including the high costs associated with relocation.

Newtok has already spent around $160 million over the years, and estimates for relocating other communities like Kivalina range from $100 million to $400 million.

Unfortunately, federal funding for such projects remains elusive, with financial assistance typically available only after a disaster declaration.

Despite these hurdles, there is hope. The new village site promises improved health and living conditions, with plans for piped water and sewage systems to replace the current “honey bucket” method.

The cultural fabric of the community is also being woven anew, as Indigenous practices and traditions continue to thrive in their new environment.

The arrival of the last residents is met with excitement, as they look forward to reuniting and rebuilding their community.

 

Calvin Tom, left, the tribal administrator, lifts his son Brady Tom into his boat in Mertarvik, Alaska on Wednesday, Aug. 14, 2024. (AP Photo/Rick Bowmer)

 

Ashley Tom expresses a deep sense of belonging in Mertarvik, stating, “I really love this new area, and I just feel whole here.”

The community’s resilience is evident as they adapt to their new surroundings, with opportunities for subsistence hunting and fishing still abundant.

The arrival of belugas in the fall offers a chance for traditional hunting, ensuring that cultural practices endure even in the face of adversity.

The journey from Newtok to Mertarvik symbolizes not just a physical relocation but a profound testament to the strength and adaptability of the Yupik people.

As they navigate the complexities of climate change and community disruption, they remain committed to preserving their traditions and way of life.

The new village site may not replicate the old, but it offers a fresh start, a chance to forge a future that honors their past while embracing the challenges of tomorrow.

In a world increasingly affected by climate change, the story of Newtok serves as a poignant reminder of the urgent need for action and support for communities facing similar threats.

The resilience of its people shines through as they embark on this new chapter, determined to maintain their cultural identity and ensure a sustainable future for generations to come.

 

Water and patches of green are visible near Mertarvik, Alaska Tuesday, Aug. 13, 2024. (AP Photo/Rick Bowmer)